by Brian O'Malley | March 1, 2010 11:49 am
Accumulated from Mastering the Art of French Cooking by Julia Child, Louisette Bertholle, and Simone Beck as well as re-catching some of Julia’s shows on youtube.com that bore out some of the specific details. I love 2010.
This recipe exemplifies a flavor building trifecta known as the Sear-Deglaze-Reduce. The meat is allowed to adhere to a ridiculously hot pan until the brown on the pan and the brown on the meat are about the same-and the meat has “released” from the pan. Then it is flipped to a new, unmarred spot in the pan that is also ridiculously hot. Once you pull the meat out, aromatics are added and once soft, the deglazing occurs. An alcoholic liquid-at least an acidic liquid if not alcoholic-is added. This serves to “lift” the fond, or the crusty brown bits, from the pan. A bit of other flavorful liquid goes in, and the heat calms down so as to allow those flavors a chance to slowly mingle and get comfortable with one another.
During the reduction process – procedure #8 below – it is very important that the sauce does not boil rapidly. The reduction process is about allowing water and other volatile liquids to evaporate. If the mixture is boiling rapidly, it will take with it other compounds that are meant to be left in the sauce.
There is some debate as to whether or not the meat should be removed from the pan before deglazing. In this specific case, I am a believer in removing. When the protein item is left in place in the pan as deglazing occurs, the fond that is released from under the meat then sticks to the meat directly above it. That action creates a deeper, fuller crust on the meat itself which is obviously desirable for some protein items, namely scallops.
Drawbacks of leaving the meat in the pan during deglazing:
Ingredients Yield: 2 servings
1 ounce vegetable oil
4 ounces whole unsalted butter, cold and cut into small pieces
4 each 4 ounce medallions of beef tenderloin, uniformly ¾” thick, seasoned liberally and rested at room temperature for 15-20 minutes before cooking
1 small shallot, finely minced
¼ clove garlic, pasted
1 ounce Brandy, or Cognac
2 ounces Madeira
8 ounces veal stock, clarified and reduced by half
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
10 leaves fresh thyme
¼ tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
½ each lemon, to be juiced a la minute
to taste sea salt
to taste black peppercorns, freshly ground
1 tablespoon parsley, finely chopped
Procedure
Source URL: http://fsmomaha.com/steak-diane-recipe/
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