Issue 30

20 Questions with Chef Alfred Hiltbrunner

20 Questions with Chef Alfred Hiltbrunner

This Interview is with Chef Alfred Hiltbrunner, retired Executive Chef of more than 35 years at Le Café de Paris in Omaha, Nebraska. The restaurant decided to shut its doors following the departure of Chef Hiltbrunner. The interview was conducted on June 12, 2009. I had the amazing opportunity to train under Chef Hiltbrunner in preparation for my first job in the culinary industry. He is my mentor and I have the highest respect for him as a chef and a friend.
Amelia Timms

AT: Chef, please tell me how you got started in the culinary field.
AH: I started out working as an apprentice when I was 16 years old in an upscale hotel in     Switzerland where I am from.

AT: Did you have a mentor?
AH: I would say that the chef that I apprenticed under was my mentor. I trained for 3 years under him.

AT: Did you attend a formal culinary school?
AH: I attended a type of trade school. Once a week during the apprenticeship, I attended classes that gave me an education in costing menus, wine parings and the business side of being a chef. The classes were taught by certified chefs. The school also taught different types of trades alongside the culinary trade. In Europe, they focus mostly on the practical training when preparing a chef for the industry.

AT: How did you end up in Omaha?
AH: When I was working in Montreal, Canada, I met a chef that knew of the job and could not get his papers to get to the U.S. He told me of the job at Le Café de Paris.

AT: What year did you start at Le Café de Paris?
AH: I started in 1971 about one and a half years after it first opened.

AT: What was one of the most popular dishes that you served during your time there?
AH: The Dover Sole was very popular.

AT: What year did you retire?
AH: I retired in 2006 after almost 36 years.

AT: Why do you think the restaurant was so successful for so many years?
AH: We were always consistent in the preparation of our food and we served a high-quality product.

AT: Did you develop any friendships with some of your regulars?
AH: Many friendships over the years, and I still keep in touch with some of them.

AT: What would you say your overall cooking style is?
AH: French classically trained.

AT: Do you think technology will have a large affect on the culinary field, or will future chefs need to rely on classical methods?
AH: To achieve success, they need to be classically trained, and then can translate some of the classic methods into modern techniques. To be successful is to know and use the basics in good cooking, like making your own stocks, knowing how to make good sauces. Don’t take shortcuts and always use good-quality ingredients.

AT: How are you staying active in the culinary world now that you are retired?
AH: I have an organic garden, and sometimes I cook on the side for friends. That is about it. I feel that I spent a long enough time in the industry and now it is time to be retired.

AT: What year was your induction into the Omaha Hospitality Hall of Fame?
AH: I was inducted in 2002.

AT: What do you miss about working at the restaurant?
AH: Sometimes I miss the rapport with the customers. We had many regulars. The owner would talk to the customers during their meal and always give a rose to the women as they were leaving. He would thank them and walk the customers to the door when they would leave. That is the kind of service you do not see very much anymore.

AT: Were you ever involved in any culinary organizations?
AH: No, I never had the time. I worked six days a week for over 35 years.

AT: How important is it to have a good relationship with your vendors?
AH: Very important! If you have a good relationship with the vendor, it saves time and money. They know what you want without even asking. They will get you the freshest ingredients and highest-quality products.

AT: What role do you think this economy is playing in a restaurant’s survival?
AH: Restaurants are always under a strain during a healthy economy. The smaller restaurants will suffer the most, and the chains will most likely survive. Be consistent.

AT: What advice can you give to a chef wanting to start a new restaurant?
AH: You must be there all the time, and put in the hours to make it work. Always serve consistent, high-quality food.

AT: What would you say is your favorite meal to cook?
AH: I like to cook a rack of lamb, I really don’t have a favorite. I just like to cook in general.

AT: What is one of your favorite places to eat in Omaha?
AH: I don’t go out much. If I do, I normally get prime rib. It is hard to mess up a prime rib!


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